AHA vs. BHA: Understanding Chemical Exfoliants and How to Use Them
If you have spent any time reading skincare ingredient labels, you have likely encountered the abbreviations AHA and BHA. These two categories of chemical exfoliants are among the most studied and widely recommended actives in modern skincare, and yet the terminology can cause real confusion. Understanding what they do differently — and why that distinction matters for your skin — can dramatically improve your routine outcomes.
What Are AHAs?
AHA stands for alpha-hydroxy acid. These are water-soluble acids derived primarily from natural sources such as sugarcane (glycolic acid), milk (lactic acid), and fruit (citric and malic acid). Because they are water-soluble, AHAs work on the surface layers of the skin. Their primary mechanism involves loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more easily and reveal the fresher cells beneath.
The most commonly used AHAs in skincare are glycolic acid (smallest molecule, deepest surface penetration) and lactic acid (larger molecule, generally gentler and more hydrating). Lactic acid in particular is well-suited to sensitive and dry skin types because it also functions as a humectant — it draws moisture into the skin as it exfoliates.
What Are BHAs?
BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid. The most prevalent BHA in skincare is salicylic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in willow bark. Unlike AHAs, BHAs are oil-soluble. This chemical property allows them to penetrate the sebum (oil) that lines pores and work from the inside out, dissolving the material that contributes to blackheads, whiteheads, and clogged pores.
Salicylic acid also carries anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it particularly effective for acne-prone and congested skin. It reduces redness around blemishes while simultaneously clearing the pore itself — a dual benefit that AHAs do not provide.
Which Is Better for Your Skin Type?
The honest answer is that most skin types benefit from both — just used strategically. If you experience blackheads, enlarged pores, or acne, a product containing BHA should be a priority. If dullness, uneven texture, or hyperpigmentation are your primary concerns, AHA is typically more effective. Many formulations now combine both, such as the Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0, which includes 4.5% lactic acid alongside 0.45% salicylic acid for a balanced approach to exfoliation.
Regardless of which acid you use, a broad-spectrum SPF applied each morning is non-negotiable. Chemical exfoliants remove the uppermost protective layer of dead skin cells, temporarily increasing UV sensitivity. Sun protection preserves your progress and prevents new pigmentation from forming.